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Jack Moss rounds up the very best collections from London Vogue Week Autumn/Winter 2021 – from Ahluwalia’s highly effective celebration of migration, to Molly Goddard’s musing on ‘traditional’ British items
Titled Life Earlier than Beginning, Greek designer Eftychia Karamolegkou’s newest assortment represented “the top of one thing outdated, the start of one thing new”. Born from a tough six months – “worry, isolation, melancholy” had been the phrases she used to explain the sensation of designing on this present second – the gathering struck a darker temper, although her subversive tackle tailoring remained the main focus. An accompanying movie by the artist Polly Brown noticed a surreal collage of pictures mix to create a “visible ‘self-help’ diary” of the final half yr.
Saul Nash returned this season with one other highly effective video presentation, which melded the designer’s background in dance together with his want to create clothes which adapts to and strikes with its wearer. Directed by longtime collaborator Fx Goby, TWIST explores the “cultural and societal panorama” Nash grew up in by means of a stylised sequence through which two males, surrounded by a crowd of their friends, seem to struggle earlier than kissing on the movie’s conclusion. “You assume there’s going to be an altercation, however what it’s constructing as much as is a second of affection,” he stated.
With out having the ability to go to the library for analysis, Molly Goddard turned in the direction of books she already had at dwelling: Tina Barney’s Europeans, David Douglas Duncan’s Goodbye Picasso and Terence Conran’s books on interiors. “All of those books characterize one thing that has at all times impressed me. I really like folks of all generations and the way they put on garments,” she stated. This resulted in a brand new tackle ‘traditional’ British items – tweed suiting, Honest Isle knits, a velvet coat – which had been layered and mixed as if handed by means of time. “Every merchandise may have been handed down by means of generations, and now hopefully can be,” the designer stated.
Irish designer Rory Parnell Mooney stated his newest assortment was pushed by intuition – “I wasn’t over-thinking,” he defined. The consequence was an optimistic providing which honed in on the thought of “preparing for work, on the point of exit … something that requires an outfit”. Impressed directly by the movies Beau Travail, Working Woman and Wild at Coronary heart, the clothes straddled workplace and membership, elevating on a regular basis garments – pinstripe tailoring, denim denims, the T-shirt – into horny, dance floor-ready separates. “I suppose the gathering seems ahead in a hopeful strategy to the longer term, to getting collectively once more,” he stated.
Bianca Saunders’ Autumn/Winter 2021 assortment seemed to the work of Jean Cocteau, Man Ray and Erwin Wurm, discovering inspiration for items which explored the thought of “optimistic and unfavourable areas”. “I prefer to take a multidisciplinary method to my work, with artwork and filmmaking as a part of my observe,” the designer stated, having exhibited a collection of sculptures in Paris final yr. That exhibition led to an exploration of type: right here, Saunders’ signature clean-cut tailoring discovered new quantity, widened throughout the shoulder, whereas floor texture added to the sculptural really feel of the gathering, from intricate ruffled tailoring to creased and twisted shirts.
All eyes can be on Simone Rocha subsequent month as her high-profile collaboration with H&M arrives in shops, however outdoors pressures appeared removed from the designer’s thoughts as she offered her newest assortment yesterday. Enlivening her signature romantic silhouette with punky irreverence – biker jackets, schoolgirl skirts, brothel creepers – it was a group which noticed Rocha double-down on her roots, rising up as an adolescent with a rebellious streak. Elsewhere, pinafores, collared shirts and dishevelled babydoll attire seemed again to high school and childhood, whereas a collection of cocooning robes, shaped from twisted cloth flowers or patchworked wallpaper prints, conjured magnificence and escape – lengthy the driving forces behind Rocha’s work.
Priya Ahluwalia came upon after her Autumn/Winter 2021 assortment aired this weekend that she is the recipient of this yr’s Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. This season was an illustration why: recalling the spirit of the Harlem Renaissance and the best way migration can result in new concepts and colleges of thought, an accompanying movie – made alongside musician cktrl and filmmaker Stephen Isaac-Wilson – explored concepts of brotherhood and unity. Hybrid clothes and upcycling remained on the forefront of Ahluwalia’s imaginative and prescient, right here imagined in a palette impressed by artists Kerry James Marshall and Jacob Lawrence, whereby vivid color is backgrounded with subdued shades of brown and black.
A sense of escape was central to Antonio Vattev’s newest assortment, which took viewers on a symbolic journey to the moon. Titled Technology in Rehearsal, the designer started by trying in the direction of Nineteen Seventies sci-fi and the rebellious spirit of three icons of the age – and Vattev’s personal heroes – Grace Jones, Mick Jagger and David Bowie. A fusion of operate and glamour set the gathering’s blueprint, melding techy high-neck jackets and poncho hoodies with 70s-tinged racer-striped trousers and slick leather-based overcoats – “an ode to the period the place house was the longer term and the moon [was] a brand new starting”.
In the meantime Yuhan Wang’s assortment was titled Ladies in Panorama, drawing inspiration from the symbolic language of conventional Tang Dynasty panorama portray. “Unable to vary their bodily setting, the artist projected their interior imaginary panorama onto the outer world,” the designer stated of the style, reflecting this fashion of working into her personal delicately constructed items. Like in earlier collections, floral motifs present the spine of the gathering – right here throughout narrow-waisted jacquard tailoring, or adorning ruffled lace robes and tights – alongside prints of Sika deer and pine fronds. “I needed to discover how time, house and spirit join ladies collectively, and the way nature is an ever-present trainer,” Wang stated.
Vogue East returned this season with a digital presentation, seeing returning designers Maximilian Davis, Goom Heo and Nensi Dojaka joined by Jawara Alleyne and HRH (Hannah Hopkins). The brand new arrivals had been energetic additions: CSM graduate Alleyne’s assortment was set aboard a fantasy ship ‘The Renegade’, Hopkins created a collection of vibrant equipment impressed by gymnastics and determine skating. Dojaka’s spidery mini attire discovered inspiration from the elegant strains of Hilma af Klint this season, whereas Heo mused on safety, “an announcement on the necessity for preparation within the face of the unknown”. Davis – final season’s breakout star – proved his endurance with a chic, elevated assortment which started with enthusiastic about his grandmother’s emigration from Trinidad to England within the Sixties, and her wardrobe for attending church on Sundays. “It’s the one second when the Black neighborhood would costume up and exhibit their outfits – in the identical manner that me and my mates will placed on our seems to go to the membership,” he stated.
Titled Dunhill Compendium, inventive director Mark Weston stated he was specializing in particular person gadgets of clothes slightly than themes this season – “[it] appears extra acceptable when a group is checked out intimately slightly than proven and seen at a distance,” he stated. Match for our present unsure mode of dressing – whereby a want for clothes to put on at house is matched with a need for clothes for freer days forward – the gathering compiles a collection of hardworking staples, the place clothes are constructed to be many issues directly, just like the Compendium parka which could be zipped away to rework right into a shorter jacket.
Riccardo Tisci offered his first standalone menswear assortment on Monday, changing the forest setting of final season for a minimal plywood set positioned within the model’s Regent Avenue retailer, enveloped with thick beige curtains. That stated, the outside was nonetheless on Tisci’s thoughts: “Enclosed indoors, I dreamt of the outside and its magnificence,” the Italian designer stated. Trying in the direction of the British craft and out of doors actions of the early twentieth century, it was a group which centred on expression and escape. Outerwear was a spotlight all through: a hybrid model of the Burberry trench opened the present, later, it got here fringed on the hem and cuff, tied on the waist with a silk scarf.
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